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The masters of glass skin: advice from Korea’s top dermatologists

The masters of glass skin: advice from Korea’s top dermatologists

When people talk about Korean skincare, they usually talk about products. Serums. Toners. Essences. Routines with many steps.

But in Korea, skincare does not start on the shelf.
It starts at the clinic.

Seeing a dermatologist in Korea is as routine as visiting the dentist. Not only when something goes wrong, but also as ongoing maintenance. That is why the real foundation of “glass skin” is not trends or viral products. It is medical thinking.

Behind the world’s most admired complexions are board-certified dermatologists who treat real skin every day. Idols. Actors. Office workers. Teenagers with acne. Adults with pigmentation and stress-induced breakouts.

What makes them effective is not magic. It is philosophy.

Here is what Korea’s top dermatologists actually believe and what they consistently tell their patients.

Dr. Hong-seok Kim

Board-certified dermatologist, VOS Dermatology Clinic

Core philosophy: cleansing is the foundation of skin health

Dr Hong-seok Kim is one of the most respected names in Korean dermatology, known for his meticulous focus on the skin barrier. He is famous for the idea that skin must be diagnosed precisely before it can be treated. Not oily versus dry. But how the skin is behaving right now.

His signature advice

He often warns against what he calls the “double cleansing trap.” While oil cleansing followed by foam cleansing is popular, he believes it can be too stripping for dry or sensitive skin.

His golden rule is simple:
If your skin feels tight after washing, damage has already occurred.

He frequently recommends:

  • pH-balanced cleansers
  • Very gentle cleansing at night
  • Skipping cleanser in the morning and rinsing with water only when appropriate

Takeaway

Cleansing should preserve your natural moisturising factors, not erase them.

Dr. Jung Kwang-ryeol

Director, DIORE Dermatology Clinic, Gangnam

Core philosophy: prepare the skin before you treat it

Located in the heart of Gangnam, Dr Jung is known for his work in lifting and anti-ageing. His clinic attracts international patients because he refuses shortcuts.

He uses a farming analogy that perfectly captures the K-derm mindset.

You cannot plant seeds in dry, compacted soil.

His signature advice

Before advanced treatments like skin boosters or lifting procedures, the skin must be properly exfoliated, hydrated, and stabilised.

He believes tightening without improving skin quality leads to unnatural, short-lived results.

Clinical focus

He is known for combining technologies like ONDA lifting with hydration-focused skin boosters, aiming for regeneration rather than aggressive pulling.

Takeaway

Great results come from preparation, not force.

Dr. Jinah Yoo

Consultant dermatologist, founder of Maylin JYD

Core philosophy: glass skin comes from circulation, not oil

Dr Jinah Yoo bridges medical dermatology and the spa-like glow many people associate with K-beauty. She is often cited for her expertise in achieving mul-gwang, the translucent, water-lit glow.

Her signature advice

She emphasises treatments that improve how moisture moves through the skin, not just what sits on top of it.

One of her clinic staples is LDM, a form of ultrasound micro-massage that helps balance hydration and calm inflammation.

Her key insight

Skincare products alone often remain superficial. To achieve true glass skin, hydration must be pushed deeper through technology or technique.

Takeaway

Glow is not grease. It is even hydration and healthy circulation.

Dr. Yongbae Shin

Founder, Dr. New Cell Dermatology Clinic

Core philosophy: gravity tells the truth

With over a decade of experience, Dr Shin is known for his insistence on personalisation. One of his most interesting practices is also one of the simplest.

His signature advice

He examines patients sitting upright, not lying down.

Why it matters:
When you lie flat, gravity pulls the skin backwards, hiding sagging and volume loss. Treating the face in this position leads to inaccurate results.

By observing the face in its natural state, he can see exactly where support is missing.

Takeaway

Anti-ageing treatments must respect how the face actually moves and ages in real life.

Dr. Tae Eun Kim, M.D., PhD

Veteran dermatologist, Cheongdam-dong

Core philosophy: treat the root, not the symptom

Dr. Tae Eun Kim is one of the most experienced dermatologists in Korea, known for handling complex acne and scarring cases.

Her signature advice

She views adult acne as a systemic issue, often influenced by stress, inflammation, and internal imbalance.

Rather than aggressive, full-face lasers that thin the skin, she prefers targeted, pinpoint treatments that stimulate regeneration only where needed.

Takeaway

Healthy skin is preserved by precision, not by destroying everything and hoping it regrows better.

Dr Rosa Kim, M.D.

Board-certified dermatologist and educator

Core philosophy: Education is the best prescription

Dr Rosa Kim represents the modern wave of dermatologists who believe understanding leads to better outcomes.

Her signature advice

She is a strong advocate for PDRN, often called salmon DNA, which supports regeneration and repair. While it began as an injectable treatment, she educates patients on how topical PDRN can support recovery at home.

She also focuses heavily on:

  • Distinguishing irritation from purging
  • Setting realistic expectations
  • Explaining why skin reacts the way it does

Takeaway

When patients understand their skin, they make better decisions.

The common thread among Korea’s top dermatologists

Despite their different specialities, their advice overlaps in powerful ways.

They all agree on this:

  • Barrier health comes first
  • Gentle consistency beats aggressive routines
  • Over-exfoliation delays progress
  • Hydration and sun protection are non-negotiable
  • Skin quality matters more than instant results

None of them recommend scrubbing harder, layering ten acids, or chasing overnight transformation.

Glass skin is not fragile.
It is well-supported.

If you cannot visit a Korean skin clinic

Most people cannot fly to Gangnam. But you can still follow the same core principles these doctors teach every day.

  • Cleanse gently
  • Protect your barrier
  • Hydrate deeply and consistently
  • Use actives strategically, not constantly
  • Wear sunscreen daily

That alone will put you ahead of most routines.

Final thoughts

Korean dermatologists do not sell miracles. They sell patience, consistency, and respect for skin biology.

Glass skin is not a trend.
It is a result of skin that is calm, hydrated, protected, and understood.

If you follow one rule from every expert above, let it be this:

Protect your barrier first.
Everything else follows.

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